Navigating Flavour at the Christmas Market

Volker Bach looks at branded foods as guideposts and guarantors of quality

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A traditional sweet stall, oversized gingerbread hearts and all.

Christmas fairs have a long tradition in Germany. Originally, they existed to provide markets for rural buyers when their pockets were at their fullest. Christmas, then as now, was a religious holiday, but not very. The markets were there to shop, but also to have fun, to enjoy small luxuries and to make money from people who didn’t know any better. They still are.
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Symposiasts at work: Pelin Dumanlı

Andrew Dalby introduces Symposiast Pelin Dumanlı

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Today we have naming of parts … Pelin Dumanlı at her culinary workshop in Bodrum

All images: Pelin Dumanlı

Pelin reached Oxford in 2016… at last. She first proposed a paper back in 2012 (‘pushing her luck’, as she says), soon after beginning her master’s at Bilgi University in İstanbul. That proposal wasn’t accepted, but she doesn’t give up easily and found that the topic in July 2016, ‘Offal’, was what she wanted: exactly the theme of her research, and just the kind of food she loves to work with.

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