Highlights from the Kitchen Lab…

Our January Kitchen Lab, hosted by Birgitte Kampmann, brought people together to cook, learn and reflect on the work of Sri Owen. With Sri’s rendang already simmering on her stove, Birgitte created a relaxed atmosphere, encouraging everyone to show their ingredients, ask questions and share how they first encountered Sri’s writing.

‘Participants joined from different countries and kitchens. Some cooked along, others observed, but everyone was keen to understand the practicalities of Sri’s food. Screens filled with ingredients—galangal, lemongrass, banana shallots, lime leaves and several varieties of red chilli—and early discussion centred on substitutions and availability. Could ginger replace galangal? Do dried lime leaves need adjusting? What fat content does coconut milk require? The exchange quickly became a grounded and helpful guide for anyone cooking Indonesian food outside Indonesia.

Much of the technical clarity came from Petty Elliot, Sri’s friend and a seasoned Indonesian cook. She introduced the essential flavours at the core of Sri’s cooking: the gentle aroma of galangal used sparingly; the large red chillies that give rendang its colour without adding too much heat; bruised lemongrass for fragrance; lime leaves for brightness; and the need for rich coconut milk—ideally eighteen per cent fat—for proper caramelisation. Petty explained that rendang is less a single recipe and more a technique. Its success depends on slow reduction, letting the coconut milk thicken gradually until the oils separate and the meat begins to fry gently. She offered practical advice: use a wide pot to prevent spills, stir more frequently near the end and expect longer cooking times if making a larger batch.

Janice Gabriel, who worked with Sri for many years and once filmed her preparing rendang, contributed useful observations about what the written recipe cannot fully convey. She described Sri’s confident use of high heat, her acceptance that the coconut milk might bubble vigorously and her habit of reading the dish visually rather than by strict timings. Janice also mentioned Sri’s trusted Dutch enamel wok, used for the final stage when the mixture darkens and requires constant attention. These details helped bridge the gap between instruction and practice.

Adding historical context, Elisabeth Luard spoke about Sri’s long association with the Oxford Food Symposium. She recalled the early gatherings where contributors brought dishes from home and how Sri’s Indonesian food immediately stood out for its clarity and depth. Elisabeth also read aloud one of Sri’s clearest statements of purpose as a writer:
‘My mission is to show my readers the real goodness of Indonesian food… and to make my countrymen and women proud of it.’
Hearing these words framed the entire evening.

Alongside the rendang, Petty guided the group through a straightforward aromatic fish soup flavoured with lemongrass, tomato and a touch of chilli. Participants exchanged ideas for accompaniments—quick cucumber pickles, pineapple achar and simple greens—and discussed which cuts of meat work best and how long dishes keep. These practical conversations grounded the session firmly in everyday cooking.
Throughout the evening, a rounded picture of Sri emerged: born in Sumatra, educated in Yogyakarta, and working for decades to adapt Indonesian cooking for British kitchens at a time when many ingredients were difficult to find. She approached food with both precision and instinct, and she remained a generous teacher throughout her life.

As the session drew to a close, someone asked what happens now, without Sri. The answer had already been demonstrated through the shared labour of the evening: we continue by cooking, by passing on what we know, and by keeping Indonesian flavours alive through practice rather than nostalgia.

People signed off gradually, heading off to finish their meals or clear their counters. What remained was a sense of having learned something useful and having honoured someone whose work continues to guide cooks far beyond her own kitchen. Through Birgitte’s hosting, Petty Elliot’s instruction, Elisabeth Luard’s reflections, Janice Gabriel’s insights and the steady participation of the group, Sri’s presence felt close—not as sentiment, but through technique, flavour and shared understanding.’